We make Sterling Silver Stacking rings and Gold Band Rings. We hand make and hand finished each ring in our London jewellery workshop and studio. So today we will share the process from start to finish.
Our stacking rings come as individual rings or in sets of three that compliment each other perfectly.
We hand craft each silver stacking ring in the Roberts and Co workshop and studio here in London. So today I’m excited to share with you how we hand make one of the most popular pieces on our website. The one millimetre halo rings also called one millimetre stacking rings and often used as one millimeter skinny fit wedding bands.
Silver Staking Rings Set
Technically a 1 millimetre halo ring however that’s not what most people call them. They’re a band ring so very simple stylish and timeless in design.
People style these in a number of ways. Silver stacking rings can be worn on their own and many people stack them. So they’re also layered with the same ring. Or rings from other designers and also different styles and designs of ring. Worn as a wedding ring they’re a very skinny fit wedding ring which is very popular right now.
Staking Rings Gold
We make these in 22 karat yellow gold, 18 karat yellow, white, red / rose gold, 9 karat yellow, red and white gold and we do the sterling silver versions. The sterling silver version is also available in gold plate. So we do a version plated with 22 karat yellow gold and either 18 yellow or 18 red or rose gold. The plated versions are perfect if you want the gold look at fraction of the cost. But obviously if it’s for a wedding ring we would recommend the solid gold as opposed to the plated version.
So let’s jump onto the jewellery bench and I’ll share with you how we make these.
Before we do let’s just talk about the metal. Each ring is made using one millimetre wire. 1 millimetre round wire is very widely available from most bullion dealers. For some of the rings we make we have to make our own wire but this is easily available.
Staking Rings Sterling Silver
We use the bullion dealer Heimerle + Meule for this wire in the UK. Also as Germany’s oldest gold and silver refinery they have offices all over Europe. Our customers like to know that the products they’re buying are sourced responsibly. And Heimerle + Meule demonstrate that their products meet the latest tractability and responsibility guidelines. They also produce great quality alloys.
Before I started making jewellery I used to sell all the tools and equipment to make and repair jewellery. Also to make and repair clocks and watches. So over the years I’ve built up quite a collection of modern tools and equipment and also vintage and antiques. so I thought today it’d be a cool opportunity to use one of them. So I thought as a heat source we could use a vintage blow torch.
I normally make these rings in small batches so I know the length for each finger size. But as this is a one-off we can just wrap the wire round the ring stick to get the finger size. I make it slightly undersized because it will get bigger as we shape it once it’s soldered together.
So once we have our ring shape we need to file the ends so we get a nice clean joint and a flush fitting joint. Otherwise the solder won’t flow through the joint.
So using a flat side of a very fine file to get nice smooth ends.
Once we have nice smooth ends we need to form the ring. Using flat and half round pliers get a nice flush fitting joint.
So no we’ve got a nice clean flush fitting joint we need to flux both the joint and I’ll flux the whole ring to protect the silver from the heat. Using some water in a borax tray and borax cone we grind up some borax flux. And using a borax brush which has no metal so it can’t rust and contaminate the flux.
Using a borax brush to apply borax flux to the joint and put some on the the whole ring. So we control where the solder goes not with the flux but with the heat.
So we’re using hard silver solder and cut a small Pallion off the solder strip.
Vintage Blow Torch
For this vintage blow torch to work you have to hold it at a slight angle that will heat up the burner to draw through the spirit. And eventually we’ll get a flame. And a flame hot enough to heat the silver up to the melting point of the silver solder.
So now I’ve got a nice flame from the torch it’s time to solder the ring.
So now we have our ring soldered together. Most of the fire scale has actually come off in the cold pickle. If there was still fire scale on the ring we would need to put it in a hot pickle pot.
We need to clean up the joint and remove any excess solder. And for that we use an emery stick.
We can now use a round steel mandrel called a triblet to shape the ring round. And I can hammer this with a raw hide mallet so we don’t distort the ring.
Now the ring is ready for its final polishing. Then it will be ready to go to a customer.
Polishing is a multi-stage process that takes some time and quite a lot of practice to get right.
Cleaning Jewellery Professionally
The polishing process is very messy so after polishing each piece needs cleaning. I use an ultrasonic cleaning machine. Which is a piece of equipment you’d more commonly find at the dentists in a dental laboratory or a dental technicians. Ultrasonic cleaners are very effective at cleaning small and intricate objects.
So now we have this silver stacking ring finished, polished and cleaned. I need to give the ring a buff with a microfiber polishing cloth. Removing any fingerprints.
Also I want to take some fresh photographs of this ring in the light box for our social media.
So check the links below to our social media accounts to see more pictures of these popular rings.